There’s a new pub in town, well, to be accurate, there has been a pub in this building (George & Dragon) on Dayus Square Jewellery Quarter since Victorian times.
It was derelict for two decades before being renovated and re-named The Pig & Tail in 2016, then closed again. After yet another new lease of life, the grade 2 listed pub is now named Temper & Brown with a new exciting team at the helm.
A recent invite to review this pub’s Sunday menu was greeted with interest as I sadly had to miss the launch event in September.
Music is at the heart of Temper & Brown, with some class local DJs already gracing the decks, such as Adam Regan and DJ Dick of Leftfoot fame, and Jim Shaft Ryan founder of 90s superclub Moneypenny’s.
With this in mind, their new Reggae Roast Sunday sounded a perfect way to experience this new opening.
Reggae Roast allows guests to enjoy classic reggae tunes every Sunday while indulging in great food. Perfect for laid-back afternoons with soulful sounds, delicious meals, and good vibes.
Upon entry, myself, and old Harbonite pal Mark, were greeted with a smile and drinks were quickly ordered.
We had a mooch around before finding a table and this place really does have a good vibe.
Great dubby, reggae tunes, such as Burning Spear and Bunny Wailer, filled the Victorian spaces, helping to sooth our ears.
There’s a fab little beer garden out back too, with comfy seating, and an assortment of beautifully framed photographs of local people adorning the walls – providing a local, historically cultural ambiance.
Shredded Beef, Chicken Thighs & Carl Chinn Dancing to Toots & The Maytals
Our table was chosen, and with the sun streaming in from the architectural delight of Dayus Square outside, we chose the Shredded Beef, and Roast Chicken from ‘Cajun Soul Kitchen‘ who operate out of the Temper & Brown’s kitchen.
The food arrived in good time.. just as we were finishing our first pints of locally produced Attic Brew.
Firstly, I have to say the plantain was firm, sweet, tasty and with a soft centre.. a great start!
Mark gave me a taste of the Shredded Beef which melted with every bite, it has a slight kick to it. Chef later explained he cooks the brisket with a mix of Cajun seasoning (smoked paprika, Cayenne, white pepper, oregano, rosemary) and this is where he creates the gravy for the roast. It’s then cooked down to thicken, after blending all the veg and spices together. This method results in such a rich moreish taste to the beef.
..mixing the classic English roast idea with elements of a Caribbean Sunday dinner with Cajun flavourings and that sits perfectly in Temper & Brown’s bosom.
I tucked into the crunchy chicken thighs. These are marinated the day before allowing the chicken to take on the flavour, then baked until crispy. I dipped the chicken into the gravy and wow, what a luxury.
What sets this whole dinner up, is the mildly hot & spicy gravy (or dipping sauce if you prefer). I thought it was a genius twist on a traditional Sunday Roast and will now never want any other gravy with my roast.
Cajun Soul’s gravy was perfect for dipping the roast potatoes in too, which I am told, are boiled, fluffed up, fried and then shaken up with salt, rosemary and lemon pepper seasoning. The dipping helped soften the outer crust. I can imagine some people may find these a bit too hard to bite into without the gravy – though I personally prefer roasties done that way. Perhaps a little less well done to please all?
Even the cabbage was delicious (yes I really said that), and, if all this wasn’t satisfying enough, I poured the rest of the gravy over the rice, and what was left of the chicken and cabbage.. oh my days, what a glorious amalgam of flavours melting in your mouth.
Charlie, the chef, later explained he’s mixing the classic English roast with elements of a Caribbean Sunday dinner, topped off with Cajun flavourings, and that, sits perfectly in Temper & Brown’s bosom.
He enlightened me further, apparently Cajun food mostly starts with what they call ‘the trinity’ (bell peppers, onions, celery). The Cajun version of the French ‘mirepoix’. Charlie follows this idea with the ‘dirty rice’ and the stewed peppers & greens (collared greens) which, to my mind, makes this roast one of the heartiest, and flavoursome, I have tasted in recent times.. far superior to The Church Hockley which we tried recently, and at least on par with The Red Lion and 1000 Trades nearby.
I really do think Cajun Soul & Temper & Brown’s ‘Reggae Roast’ is a new contender for top of my list along with places such as The Plough Harborne, Red Lion JQ, 1000 Trades, Anchor Diglis and Malvern Hills Hotel.
Once the plates were (almost) licked clean, Mark and I took a seat in the boothed area with proprietor Roifield for a last drink before heading off to Harborne, and then Stirchley to catch up with a few others.
Roifield’s passion to make Temper & Brown a success for Birmingham shines through. They have a great team, and everything I experienced that afternoon, felt authentic somehow. And to top it off… as if by magic, local historian Carl Chinn was sat opposite and enjoyed a dance, after Roifield put on some Toots & The Maytals for him. What a fab little place and we WILL be back for another Reggae Roast.. check it out before you have to book way in advance.
Words by Nick Byng for Grapevine Birmingham.