A brisk Thursday morning in Birmingham city centre, the German Market already firing on all cylinders and the recently renovated Paradise stretch bustling with a mixture of suits and Christmas shoppers, already weighed down by bags. There are many new eateries in this revamped area of Birmingham, but when brunch is needed and you’re craving that little bit of extra flavour, spice and warm, inviting surroundings, there is only one option, in my tastebud’s opinion.
Dishoom may be a chained brand, and if you’re of the independent persuasion, don’t let that put you off. Inspired by the old Irani cafes that opened in Bombay, early last century, and mostly now all but gone , Dishoom’s ethos is one that pays homage to those shared spaces where everyone is welcome and people of all walks of life rub shoulders to enjoy the food of Bombay, and the influence Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran had on the community cafe culture of the western coast of India.
Seated in a booth that allowed us to face out and take in all angles of the lovely relaxed dining space and just catching the breakfast menu before the kitchen flipped over to their all day offering at 11:45am, we opted for the Christmas Breakfast Special, a Bacon & Brie Naan Roll, paired with a Bloody-Gosh Mary from the cocktail menu, and a Kejriwa from the breakfast menu, accompanied by a Marmalade Mimosa, Dishoom’s Christmas Cocktail Special.
The Bacon & Brie Naan Roll is as comforting a site as it is to eat; Lusciously soft and plump naan bread with a dusty tandoor char, encasing smoky streaky bacon, creamy brie and cranberry-chilli chutney, giving each mouthful a lovely seasonal sour-sweetness. The warming heat and makhani sauce of the delicious Bloody Mary worked perfectly with this dish, shaking each other’s hands in a savoury show off.
To compliment this, I found the Kejriwal equally delectable; Two dark golden yolked, perfectly fried eggs, blanketing a supreme tasting chilli cheese toast, which was crispy and soft in all the right places, giving flavoursome bites of medium spiced green chillies, coated in bubbly grilled cheese. A breakfast dish of perfect texture, taste and comfort.
And to finish, a Marmalade Mimosa gave lovely balance to the chilli spice still lingering in my mouth. Ruby grapefruit juice with Spumante and in-house marmalade liqueur makes for a very refreshing, leaning on the sweet, elegant cocktail that has an underlying current of boozyness, perfect for taking the edge off of the Christmas period.
Dishoom is an establishment that has put so much attention into the details, from the decor to the food, the atmosphere to the warm and welcoming buzz of the staff, it’s all here to slip into. What they have created, as an experience, is one of informal rustic charm and sophistication, an environment that allows the customer to unwind and indulge without pretension. A fine achievement and highly recommended.
Words and images by Ollie Lloyd for Grapevine Birmingham.